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September 26, 2007
Pulling the Plug on Electric Heat
Q: Hello Ed, I have a heating question. The old part of my home is oil forced-hot-water heat while the new area is electric heat. I want to remove the electric heat and install hot-water baseboards connected to my boiler. What are the major issues that I need to think about? Harry (Pennsylvania)
A: Well, Harry, the first issue is that if you don't know the major issues, your best bet will be to call a licensed heating technician for a little help. Your problem is not uncommon when additions are put on to existing houses. Electric heat can be costly to operate in cold climates, but electric heat is fairly inexpensive to install. Many homeowners fall into that trap of keeping new-addition costs down rather than spending the extra money to do things right. That's why you may see many homes with split heating systems.
But, as you know, after a few winters of very high electric bills, the decision to correct the heating system is an easy one. But I digress. The major issue you need to address is to make sure your current boiler can handle the extra heat load; your technician will determine that. If the boiler is too small, you may be looking at a new boiler along with a new heating zone, and that can be costly. However, don't make the same mistake twice. As the old saying goes: You can pay me now or pay me later!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:16 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
September 22, 2007
New Garbage Disposers: Not the Same Old Grind
Q: Dear Ed, we need your expert advice. My husband and I are remodeling our kitchen and plan on removing the old cabinets and fixtures. Our old garbage disposer still works fine, and our plumber says we can reuse it. But, since it is several years old, does it make sense to spend the extra money for a new disposer? Bill and Lucia (Colorado)
A: Hi, Lucia. Premium garbage disposers have recently evolved into high-tech machines that address the two most important disposer issues: grinding ability and noise reduction. Along with having more models to choose from to fit your lifestyle, the new wave of disposers is engineered to work hard for you in the kitchen. The short answer to your question is yes, it may be a very good idea to upgrade to a new model. The long answer is to let me explain some of the new features found in today's garbage disposers and then you can decide for yourself if it's best for you to upgrade:
- Higher end models are the ultimate in performance. They feature three grinding stages that will grind almost any food waste from rib bones to corn cobs. Plus, they are 60 percent quieter than a standard disposer!
- Midrange models offer a second stage of grind versus a standard disposer and are at least 40 percent quieter than standard disposers.
- Quieter compact models are available for small spaces.
- Septic-system disposers feature an automatic injection of a natural microorganism into the septic system to help break down food waste.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:15 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
September 16, 2007
Water Heater Woes? No Tanks
Q: Dear Mr. Del Grande: We are installing a new bathroom that will use a separate water heater from the rest of the house. Since we're starting from scratch, we can use any type of water heater, and we are stumped with regard to using or not using a tankless water heater. We've spoken to plumbers who would not recommend them and said we would not be happy with the water-flow output. We have also spoken to neighbors who flip houses and say that tankless water heaters are all they install now since they are "the new thing" that potential home buyers are looking for to save energy. Please help us settle this dilemma since we can go no further at this point. Who's right and who's wrong? Should we go with a tankless or conventional storage- tank water heater? Thanks for your expert advice on this matter. Judy (Illinois)
A: Judy, Judy, Judy (to quote Cary Grant), this question is so loaded that I need to use the entire column on it! You raise a topic that is currently splitting the plumbing industry as to the best method to supply hot water to a home. First, keep in mind that tankless water heaters have been around since the '40s, and maybe longer than that. So, contrary to popular belief, this is not a "new" idea to heat water that is sweeping the industry by storm, and they have been popular in Europe for decades. However, due to applying new technology to an old idea and a current push to market them, lately tankless water heaters have been getting a lot of attention.
Basically, a tankless water heater works by rapidly heating the water as it passes through a piping coil rather than putting it in a big pot, heating it slowly and then storing it, as a conventional water heater does. Even though a tankless water heater may use more BTUs (energy) while it's running than a standard storage tank water heater, the mindset is that when there is no need for hot water, you're not paying to heat the same water over and over as a storage water heater might if it sits idle all day.
However, the plumbers you spoke to have a point. Since basic tankless water heaters may have to restrict the water flow to heat the water quickly and constantly, having two or more fixtures running at the same time could draw more water than the tankless heater can supply. As a result, hot-water flow may slow down to the fixtures.
To put it simply, the general rule of thumb between tankless and storage water heaters is this:
- A basic tankless water heater should give you an unlimited hot-water supply with a limited hot-water flow (depending on the number of fixtures being used). For example, if the tankless heater supplies three gallons per minute of hot water and you use two fixtures at the same time that draw more than four gallons of hot water per minute, things may slow down to a trickle at each fixture.
- Under the same conditions, a basic 50-gallon storage water heater should give you a full flow to each fixture (depending on your house water pressure), but with a limited supply of hot water. That's because once the tank is drained of hot water, it will need time to recover.
Tankless water heaters are generally more expensive than storage water heaters, but in many cases may save energy and last longer than standard tank heaters.
Confused and still unsure of the choice, Judy? Welcome to the club! I know plumbers who recommend tankless heaters and other plumbers who will only recommend conventional water heaters. Now you can see why the industry is split; each has its advantages and disadvantages.
Me? I always look at both sides to a story. My advice is to completely research the expected hot-water draw of your new bathroom; find the equivalent models of a tankless vs. a storage tank water heater; add up the total costs to see what best fits your budget; and -- most importantly -- decide what will work best with your family's lifestyle.
This all gets down to personal choices and you may find that after all your hard work, finding the right water heater could be a tankless job!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:07 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
September 9, 2007
EPA "Water Sense" Program Makes Sense
Conserving water in your home may be easier than you think, and small changes in your water use at home can make a big impact for our environment. Every family can make simple changes in their lifestyles that can save hundreds of gallons of water per week and, in the process, also lower utility bills. So, since this sounds like a win-win situation for everyone, here are Ed's Simple Water-Saving Tips we can all try at home:
- Slightly cut shower times. This is an easy one that every member in the family can try. New showerheads use up to 2.5 gallons per minute. (If you have an old water-guzzling showerhead, you need to change it to meet the new codes.) If everyone in a family of four cuts just one minute off their daily showers, it can save at least an average of 10 gallons of water per day with no noticeable difference in lifestyle. This will also save on energy bill: Less hot water needs to be generated. It will also leave a little extra hot water for the last person taking a shower. In my home, I'm the one who ends up with the cold shower!
- Change all your faucet aerators. Another easy one, and no one will know the difference. At the end of most faucets is a little round fitting with a screen called an aerator. In most cases they will simply screw off the spout, allowing you to clean them out or, as in this case, replace the standard faucet aerator with one of the new water-saving aerators that are now available. Water-saving aerators use an average of 1.5 gallons per minute; that's about a 30 percent savings over standard 2-1/2-gallon-per-minute aerators. Again, a big savings in water consumption without doing a lot of work!
- Touchless faucets. Speaking of faucets, another great idea is installing touchless faucets in places like a child's bathroom. We have all seen the automatic faucets in public restrooms, but now they are making their way into many private homes because they make a lot of sense. Touchless bathroom faucets use only the water that is needed; they will not run unless a hand or a toothbrush is under the spout. This will not only prevent children from leaving the faucet on when they run out of the bathroom, it will also save hundreds of gallons of water that would normally just run down the drain. This option can be a little pricey, but well worth it!
- Finally, install a "HET." HET stands for "high-efficiency toilet." Most new toilets flush with 1.6 gallons of water; older toilets use a lot more than that. HETs flush with 1.3 gallons of water — or less. This scares some people, because they feel less water will give a less powerful flush. However, new HETs that carry the EPA Water Sense label have been tested and certified to deliver a strong flush with less water. This will help guide the consumer as to the best toilets to purchase. Cutting your toilet flushing water by installing a HET can save you 2,000 to 5,000 gallons of water per year, per toilet! This is an incredible saving, and again, it will not drastically change your lifestyle.
I usually end this column with a little joke, but this is no joke. Nobody is inventing any new water. We need to save what we have left, or sooner or later we may run out of our running water!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:06 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
September 8, 2007
Dangerous Sump
Q: Ed, my husband and I are big fans of yours, and you have helped us with a lot of problems we have had to deal with since we recently moved into a new home. Well, it's new to us, but the home is very old! One issue that is driving us crazy is that the basement sump hole is located in a weird location that is very close the basement steps. Is it possible to move the location of the sump to a safer area? Bill and Jill (New Jersey)
A: Hi, Bill and Jill. I have had a few letters from New Jersey with similar concerns. Maybe there was a contractor in the area many years ago who liked putting sumps out in the open. Anyway, the good news is that in most cases a sump pit can be moved. The bad news is that it really should to be done by a licensed professional and that can cost a bit of money. It will depend if it's a drainage system leading to the sump, which may have to be rerouted to the new pit, or if it's only a new pit that needs to be installed with some crushed stone for drainage. That will determine your costs.
Either way, once the new pit is in place, that old pit will be filled and covered with concrete. Permits may be required in your area, so check local codes. At the very least, while you're deciding what to do, make sure you get a safe, strong and secure cover over the sump pit to protect your basement from moisture and to protect you and your family from falling into the open pit. Remember, many times a sump pit can be full of water, and you do not want to have a dangerous environment for children or pets. So everyone out there make sure that all sump pits are covered up per your local codes!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:04 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
September 7, 2007
Things May Get a Little Lower as We Get Older
Q: Hi, Ed. I have an embarrassing question, and I need to address this problem. I'll put it as politely as possible since I really need an answer to my question because this has become a very uncomfortable situation. I have an older toilet and lately, either the water level in my toilet bowl is getting a little higher or part of my body is getting a little lower. How can I lower the water level in the bowl? Gary (Please don't print my state name)
A: Hi, Gary. First of all, don't feel embarrassed. Believe it or not, when I do my live presentations, I am asked this same question from time to time, so you're not alone. Many people can benefit from your question.
A toilet has two chambers that hold water: the tank and the bowl. The tank water level is controlled by the fill valve with a float switch to stop the water before it overfills the tank and spills down the overflow tube that leads directly into the bowl. The tank water level can be adjusted, so check that first. If the tank water level is overflowing into the tube, it may account for a slight rise in the bowl water level. The constant flow into the bowl will fill it to maximum capacity. The tank water level should be adjusted to about a half inch below the overflow tube.
Now to the bowl water level. Unfortunately, the bowl is basically a bucket with a spillway at the internal trap. This means that a properly filled bowl will always be at the same water level and in most cases cannot be adjusted.
If this is the case and it turns out that age has lowered some of your body parts, you do have another option. It may cost a little money, but you can remove your old toilet and install what's called a "comfort height toilet." Comfort height toilets or "special needs" toilets sit higher than a standard toilet. This will put more room between the user and the bowl water. These toilets are found in a lot of hospitals or nursing homes, and they do work nicely in private homes. Also, because they are a popular choice, the manufacturers have them now available in many colors and styles to fit just about any home.
See, Gary, your problem is not that remote, and you have some good options that in this case may leave you high and dry!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:03 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
