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November 19, 2007
Spell Check for Ed
Q: Your past article on septic systems was most informative. However, allow me to bring a minor error to your attention. You suggested that slow drains in a home with a septic system can be due to a malfunctioning "leech" field. In fact you used that term "leech" more than once.
I suggest that what you meant was "leach" field. Leach fields are areas consisting of shallow leach trenches into which the effluent from a septic tank is discharged. They are termed thus because the effluent then leaches into the soil. I am a consulting engineer and have designed several of these leach fields. I am sure that your use of the word "leech" was just a slip, but it does give rise to a hilarious mental picture! Millions of these bloodsucking little creatures avidly awaiting, and sopping up effluent in lieu of blood. I just wanted to point that out to you with warm regards. Yours cordially, Hugh (California)
A: Thanks, I can't argue with you, Hugh. You are not only correct, but you educated me on my misuse of the word in such a friendly, funny way that I accept full responsibility of my mistake and I vow never to confuse "leech" with "leach" again.
Your letter reminded me of when I first told my wife I was writing my book (Ed Del Grande's House Call). She replied that I had to read a book first before I could write one!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:58 AM | TrackBack
What's Up with the Water?
Q: Hi, Ed. I know you have lots of great info, and I need some of it. I just moved into a new home (not really new), and for some strange reason I have low water pressure inside my house. Strange because the water department has told me the pressure in the street main is at 85 pounds per square inch. What's up with this? Mike (Illinois)
A: Hi, Mike. Your letter contains a big clue: 85 psi water pressure is considered too high for residential use by most local codes. Most areas have a limit of 80 psi, and anything over that usually requires a pressure reducer valve installed at the water line just after the water meter. I suspect the previous owner had a PRV installed, and it may be set too low or not working correctly.
I would call the water department to see if they can check the water meter and the PRV for you and set a higher water pressure. The water department may not provide this service; in that case, a licensed plumber can help you out. Since this is a code issue, don't try to set the pressure yourself unless you are familiar with resetting PRV controls. You could end up damaging the control and causing a big leak. Don't put that kind of pressure on yourself!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:53 AM | Comments (3)
November 11, 2007
Shower pushed to the limit
Q: Dear Ed Del Grande, I'm so glad I read your column because you answer a lot of problems that I have at my own home! My question is about a one-handle shower mixing valve that is the push/pull type. Lately the shower head will continue to drip unless I put a lot of pressure on the handle and push very hard until the dripping eventually stops. I had a licensed plumber tell me that the back wall on my bedroom side will have to be broken to get to the water pipes and the entire valve will have to be replaced. Is the plumber right? Also, can the valve just be fixed? Mary (California)
A: Hi, Mary. Without seeing the valve first hand, all I can tell you is that you will have to investigate this problem further. Your plumber is licensed and may very well be correct that because of age, availability of parts or condition of your present valve, the best bet may to install a new valve.
But you do have a valid concern, since many older mixing valves can be rebuilt. That would save you from opening up the wall. What I recommend doing is setting up another call with your plumber and ask if it's possible to rebuild the present valve and the cost of rebuilding compared with installing a new valve. In some cases, though, rebuilding a shower valve may actually take more time than replacing one and many plumbers are hesitant to warranty a rebuild job compared to a brand new valve.
Your best bet is to do your homework and work with your plumber to find your best option. A good plumber will be happy to shower you with all the necessary information!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:22 PM | Comments (1)
Sink job hits a curve
Q: Hi, Ed. My husband and I have done some remodeling of our bathroom, which includes a new granite top, new undermount sink and a new faucet. The three faucet holes on the granite top were cut in a slight semicircle pattern to follow the sink and the middle hole is about three quarters of an inch behind the outer holes to follow that curved pattern. The faucet that we purchased requires three holes, which we have, but when we went to mount the faucet, we found the base and copper pipes are in a straight line and won't fit the curved hole pattern. Do we curve the copper faucet connections? What can we do to make this faucet fit? Linda (Alaska)
A: Hi, Linda. The short answer is that the faucet will not fit. But the long answer is that it's not all bad news. Let me explain. Bathroom faucets come in two basic mounting styles and sizes: deck mount or component mount. The spread size will usually be eight-inch or four-inch center set. Your issue is not the size, since your holes have been cut to match the faucet spread.
However, you are trying to install a deck-mount faucet on a countertop that will require a component-mount faucet. Deck-mount faucets are on a straight rectangle deck that sits atop the counter. They are installed as one unit, usually ready to go right out of the box. Basically you are trying to fit a square peg in a round hole!
What you need to do is return the deck-mounted faucet, if you can, and purchase a component faucet with flexible water connections. Component faucets are just as the name says: Instead of being one unit, the faucet will consist of several pieces that need to be installed separately on each hole. The left hole will have the hot-water handle, the center hole will have the spout and the right hole will have the cold-water handle. Because they are three components, they will follow the curved hole pattern.
Under the sink, the flexible water lines can be installed to fit all the necessary water connections to the components. Usually lav sinks with pre-drilled holes can use deck mount or component faucets. Custom counter tops like yours usually will only accept component faucets, but they will give your bathroom a very nice look.
As you realize by now, getting a nice look does require some extra work and, on the average, installing a component faucet is usually twice the work of installing a deck-mount faucet.
Sorry, but this problem has no quick fix. Since the granite is already drilled, you seem to have gotten yourself in a hole and will have to start from scratch.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:14 AM
