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May 28, 2008
Kitchen Odors Cook up a Debate
In a recent column, I addressed a question about a "rotten egg" smell coming from a kitchen sink. The homeowners were convinced that it was a sewer smell from the drain system and they asked if their kitchen sink should have a new plumbing vent installed.
While I never rule out any possible solutions when it comes to plumbing, I basically told them my gut feeling was that they had a water system issue, not a drain system issue. My reasoning was that sewer odors usually don't smell like rotten eggs. So, before they started taking apart the drain lines, I felt they should have their water system tested first.
Well, it seems that I was not the only person with an opinion on this! Please see several of the many letters I received from plumbers, contractors and homeowners about their opinions on what could be causing a "rotten egg" smell in a kitchen sink:
Ed, I had a rotten-egg-like smell in my kitchen sink and a plumber friend of mine told me the problem was within my old flexible faucet supply lines. He changed the water supply lines and no more rotten egg smell! Dan (Virginia)
Dear Ed, I remember when I was very young and the water fountains at zoo we used to visit smelled like rotten eggs. We were told that it was because the water had a high sulfur content. Just a thought. (No name.)
Ed, from one master plumber to another, the other possibility for strange kitchen sink odors may be mold growing under the cabinet due to moisture. Sorry to say this happened to me and I had to open up the walls and traced the cause to a leaking water line to the ice maker. Steve (Chicago)
Ed, I know the question was about a kitchen sink, so forgive me for changing the topic a bit. But, please remind homeowners that natural or propane gas also has a "rotten egg" smell as well. This is from the mercaptan odor that is injected into the gas to detect leaks. Persistent rotten egg like odors could be a small gas leak and need to be checked by your local gas company right away. Chris (California)
Well-said Chris. And if we learned one thing with this question, it seems that with all the different opinions we've heard, finding the exact cause of a rotten egg smell in a kitchen may be difficult to one to sniff out!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 10:05 AM | TrackBack
May 20, 2008
Saving Water Is as Easy as One, Two, Three
Green building is big nowadays and it seems everyone is going green when it comes to new construction. Over thirty years ago when I started in construction with our family business, there was no "green" building guide or "green" building shows to attend since that term had not yet been invented.
However, strangely enough, many of the new green building techniques that we use today were incorporated in the new home construction projects that I worked on way back then. Except we didn't call it green building, we simply called it common sense building. In my opinion, that's basically what green building is: building smart, and building efficiently.
A big part of building a green home is making sure that the home will conserve water. Conserving water in a home is easy when the builder installs "user-friendly," water-saving plumbing fixtures. The good news is that even existing homes can install just three of these new efficient plumbing fixtures for an average family water savings of fifteen to eighteen thousand gallons of water per year!
Here's how saving water can be as easy as one, two, three: First, replace your faucet aerators. At the end of just about every faucet spout is an aerator control. Aerators soften the water flow and control splashing when using a faucet. Replacing the standard aerators on your faucets with new "water-saving aerators" can cut faucet water use by thirty percent, without having to replace your faucets.
Second, install performance shower heads. Standard shower heads use 2.5 gallons of water per minute. New water-saving "performance" shower heads use 1.75 gallons of water per minute, but will still give you a strong flow of water. Check the manufactures specs to make sure you are buying a performance type head and you should see a water saving in your shower of thirty percent as well.
Finally, replace your old toilet. Toilets are the number one water user in your home. New "HET" (High Efficiency Toilets) now deliver a strong flush and use only 1.3 (or less) gallons of water per flush. Standard new toilets still use 1.6 gallons per flush. Installing a HET can save at least four to six thousand gallons of water per year, per toilet. Here's a quick tip; When buying a new toilet look for the EPA "Water Sense" label on the toilet box. This will state the toilet has been tested for strong flushing power with high water savings potential.
Even if you just do one or two of the above projects you will see a big difference in your water consumption. But, for maximum water savings in your home, doing all three is the key!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 11:38 AM | TrackBack
May 17, 2008
Diverting a Sale
Q: Hi Ed, we could use you right now! My husband and I are in the process of closing on a condo this week and we hit a roadblock. The inspector found a broken diverter valve in the tub/shower so water only comes out of the tub spout. Per our appraiser we cannot close on the house until this is fixed by a licensed plumber. But, the present homeowner does not have the money to call in a plumber. We have tried calling some local plumbers ourselves but it seems they cannot come out in the needed time frame. What can we do? Linda (Delaware)
A: Sorry Linda, but there is a delay from when I receive questions till when I can write the column, so I hope things worked out for you. I'm writing this for anyone else in a position where you need to get a plumber pronto.
Remember, money motivates people, and many plumbing companies have set themselves up as emergency response plumbers. You will pay a premium for this service but when you need a plumber fast, you can get one. So, look for emergency plumbers in your area or tell the standard smaller plumbing companies you call, that this is an emergency and you are willing to pay an emergency rate.
This may sound somewhat unfair to the consumer, but because of liability insurance, truck expenses and material stock that small plumbing companies have to maintain, there is usually no other choice than to raise rates for emergency work.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 11:35 AM | TrackBack
May 15, 2008
Follow Your Codes
Q: Hi Ed, I do all my own work and have a question about a half bathroom I want to install in my basement. I'm using an original pre-plumbed utility area for the location of the new bathroom but I have some concerns. The electrical panel, furnace and water heater are all in this space as well. How close can I install plumbing fixtures, walls and doors next to all this equipment? The area is very small. Guy (Nebraska)
A: Guy, listen to me very carefully. Stop right now until you consult with your local building inspector.
Contractors are not the only ones that need to pull building permits; handy homeowners need to pull permits for the job as well.
This brings up another question that comes up quite often: When should a homeowner pull a permit? I once asked a local inspector that question and his response was that anything other than painting and/or wallpapering required a permit in his area. So, it's safe to say that installing a new bathroom in your basement should require a permit.
You must realize that permits and inspectors help the homeowner. And as far as resale goes, if you have all the paperwork and permits for any additions you installed, this can actually bring in a higher price for your home! A home inspector will then know that everything added on was done to local building codes. So, don't just pull the permits, keep them on file.
Anyway, getting back to your bathroom, if you proceed without meeting with your building inspector you may create a potential disaster at you home. With all existing utilities you need to worry about ventilation, clearances, electrical panel regulations and future access to service the equipment, just to name a few. A floor plan will be needed to bring to the inspector with a layout of the proposed bathroom and location of all the utilities. The inspector can then tell you the codes and regulations you need to follow.
I must warn you that there may be a chance your building permit can be denied. In that case consider yourself lucky you didn't try to "sneak in" a bathroom without a permit. It's better to be safe than sorry!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 11:31 AM | TrackBack
May 13, 2008
Tank, Tankless... What's the Difference?
Q: Hello Ed Del Grande, I'm a big fan of your book "House Call" but there is one question I have that you did not address in the book. What is the difference between a tankless water heater and a standard tank style water heater? Maggie (Massachussetts)
A: Thanks Maggie. I'll be glad to give you your own "special edition" chapter that you can add to your book.
Standard tank-style water heaters are usually sized in thirty, forty, fifty and even seventy-five gallon tanks for standard residential use. A modest power source such as gas, oil or electric will slowly heat the water and store the hot water in the tank until it's used and then the reheating process starts over again.
A tankless water heater does not store a large volume of water. Instead it relies on powerful gas or oil burners or electric coils to heat the water instantly as it passes through piping or chambers in the unit.
They both have their advantages and disadvantages, and choice will come down to your budget and lifestyle. Remember, this question was about the difference between tankless and standard water heaters. Cost of the units, fuel efficiency and flow rates between the two is a whole different story we have to save for another day.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 11:18 AM | Comments (6) | TrackBack
May 8, 2008
Rotten Eggs for Breakfast
Q: Ed, my husband and I love your column and you are the only one left we can turn to. We have had a serious rotten egg smell in our kitchen on and off for the last five years and our home is fairly new. We know the problem is in our plumbing system not our fixtures since we have recently install a beautiful sink and faucet. We do not have a garbage disposer and we are careful about what we wash down the drain. Six plumbers have checked out the odor issue over the years with no answers. My husband thinks that the kitchen sink plumbing may not have a vent pipe and we may not be able to install one since there are windows in back of the sink. What can we do? Help! Jane (Oregon)
A: Dear Jane, let's start by saying odds are that I don't think you have a venting issue. But for information sake, for the moment let's go that route.
If in fact your kitchen sink plumbing does not have a vent pipe, that may account for the trap water being siphoned out and once that happens you can get an open line to your sewer system or septic tank. To correct this problem some type of vent needs to be installed. Even if you have finished walls or windows, somehow and someway a good plumber can install a vent line by opening up a passage way to the roof area to install the vent pipe. Also, many areas of the country allow a control called an "auto vent" that can be installed under the sink and that may solve a venting issue as well.
But, plumbing venting problems usually cause a "sewer waste" smell not a "rotten egg" smell. And, vent pipes or auto vents for plumbing fixtures are usually required by code and it's not likely that an inspector would overlook an obvious problem like a missing kitchen sink vent pipe.
So, let's get back to what I would like you to check. Have a licensed plumber check your water and water heater. A "rotten egg" smell usually points to a water issue and many times the anode rods in a water heater can break down and react with your water to produce strange odors.
With plumbing you never know, so I'm not saying this will solve all your odor issues. I'm just giving you another place to look so you can hopefully sniff out this problem!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 10:39 AM | Comments (28) | TrackBack
May 2, 2008
Can the Shower Be a Humidifier?
Q: Ed, can you resolve another husband/wife dispute? During the heating season we run an electric humidifier to put moisture into our home since we heat with a wood stove and the air can get very dry. When taking showers I leave the bathroom door open with the fan off to let the moist air dispense into the house. I feel this helps keep our house extra moist during the heating season. My husband insists that we keep the bathroom door closed tight with the bathroom vent fan on to prevent mold from building up in the bathroom. What do you think? Jayne (New Hampshire)
A: Issue one: I think that a husband should never complain about his wife taking showers with an open door. Issue two: Both of you bring up some very valid points.
You are correct that moist air is moist air and the extra shower steam may feel good in a dry house. Your husband is correct that good air flow from a vent fan may prevent mold from building up.
I have the perfect solution for your home and your marriage: Continue to take your showers with the bathroom door open, but run the vent fan while taking your shower. This will give you a nice mix of fresh air flow and extra moisture throughout your home.
Now that this dispute is over, I'm sure you'll be showering each other with love very soon!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 11:47 AM | Comments (3) | TrackBack
Code Red For Ed
Q: Mr. Del Grande, While I enjoy reading your column in our local newspaper, the advice you gave this week about setting a toilet without sealing the fixture to the floor sent me to my code books. According to my code books they all state that: "Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed."
My jurisdiction has taken this to mean the joint between the toilet base and the floor must be caulked or sealed with grout on tile floors. I would hate to have the homeowner follow your advice and get a red tag upon job inspection. Wally (Florida)
A: Hi Wally, first let me explain to our readers what the dreaded "red tag" means. It usually means someone did not follow their local codes and the "tagged" issue needs to be corrected.
In all fairness though, I was not advising to set a toilet without sealing it to the floor, the issue was shimming a toilet. So, please don't send the toilet cops after me! It looks like you did your homework and if your local codes require that the toilet base be "sealed," then there is no disagreement, we seal the toilet base to avoid the red tag.
However, there is a difference between "sealing" a toilet base and "caulking" a toilet base with adhesive caulk. My advice was that: "Most of the plumbers I know do not caulk around the entire toilet base." The reason for this is that a toilet glued to the floor can be difficult to remove without damaging the floor or breaking the toilet. Now, if you seal the toilet base with a non-adhesive material like tile grout, you can follow your local codes and avoid a problem down the road.
Keep in mind also that a completely sealed toilet base may hide a leaking toilet flange and this may damage the floor under the toilet over time. For that reason, once again myself and most of the plumbers I know will leave a gap in the seal on the back side of the toilet base. This way, the front of the bowl is sealed from urine or moisture that may get in under the toilet, but if there is a flange leak you can usually spot the water leaking out the back.
Bottom line on toilet bottoms is to do what the local inspector says and that should seal the deal with this issue!
