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July 21, 2008
Crawlspace Dehumidifier
Q: Ed, I read your column on installing a dehumidifier in a crawlspace to cut down on moisture. I'm in the process of doing that now, but I have a question. Is it wise to block or close the wall block air vents or leave them open? The licensed contractor helping me out wants to seal these vents, but I would like some fresh air in there. What is the best way to go? Nick (Ohio)
A: Nick, the best way to go really depends on your climate and the local building inspector's opinion for crawlspace ventilation.
This is a hot topic right now because many builders are going with "conditioned" crawlspaces. This is basically a sealed crawlspace with limited heating and air conditioning allowed to enter the crawlspace.
In my own home I have a dehumidifier in my crawlspace with fresh air venting the area. However, my crawlspace also has a solid concrete floor. Many crawlspaces have an earth floor covered with plastic, and that may release more moisture than a sealed floor.
Bottom line: when it comes to basement bottoms; follow your contractor's advice and do what works best for your particular home and area.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:08 PM | TrackBack
July 18, 2008
Floor Tiles on a Countertop
Q: Hello, Ed. Thanks for being here for the pros and us handy people. I'm about to install marble floor tiles for my new kitchen countertop. I also want to have an under mount kitchen sink. But, I'm in a fog about how to install the under mount sink on top of the tiles once I have the counter top in place. Can you give me some pointers? Bill (Tennessee)
A: Oh boy Bill, I don't know where to start. First, thanks for reading my column, and I hope you still like me after you read my response.
Now for the tough love. Stop what you're doing right now before you get yourself and your kitchen into a lot of trouble!
I believe you have not done enough research on your kitchen project to attempt it yourself. I say this because your question states that you want to use marble "floor" tiles for your "counter" and that you want to install an "under" mount sink on "top" of your marble tiles. I could be wrong but it sounds like you may be confused about the entire job.
Most floor tiles, especially marble, may not be suitable for countertop use because of staining issues. Always check with the manufacturer of the floor tiles to see if it's recommended for countertop use.
In many cases the warranties may be voided if the tiles are used on any other surface but a floor. So, the first thing you need to do is make sure you have the right product for the job. Also, check with the manufacturer about countertop sealers that are compatible with your type of stone.
Now for the under-mount sink. It's called an under-mount because it's installed under the counter, not on top of the counter. Under-mount sinks can be attached to solid stone surface countertops before the countertop is put into place, or the sink can be built into the cabinet base and then the counter material is placed on top of the sink.
Either way, this is usually a job for the pros since the sink is not simply placed into a hole like a standard "drop in" style sink.
Don't forget, once the sink is installed then you need to hook up the faucet, drains, disposer, soap dispenser, basket strainer and dishwasher to complete the job. That involves a whole other set of rules.
My advice is to consult a local licensed contractor to help you out with this kitchen remodeling job before you cook your goose!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 2:52 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
July 7, 2008
A Flood of Problems
Q: Dear Ed, We have recently been caught up in all the flooding from heavy rains. But we are the lucky ones; we only had less than an inch of water in our basement thanks to our sump pump. Our basement is finished, and our brand new carpeting was soaked. Can the carpet be saved? If so we will be OK since that was the only thing affected. Tim (Wisconsin)
A: Hi, Tim. You're right -- you are some of the lucky ones. Like many people, I was saddened by the images of houses being washed away during the recent floods. Count your blessings and yes, I have seen carpet professionals save many wet rugs as long as they were called in quickly and it was not waste water from sewers lines that flooded your basement.
The first step is for the cleaning company to suck up all the water with professional power wet vacuums. Then, corners of the carpet are lifted and low-profile air handlers will be set in place to vent under the carpet. Also, dehumidifiers need to be set up to dry the air in the basement and any doors or windows opened to promote ventilation.
Once dry, a good carpet shampoo can make the rug as good as new and your wet basement problems will be water under the bridge.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:49 PM | TrackBack
Three-to-One Deal
Q: Hi, Ed. My house is about 30 years old and my bathroom has a three-handle tub and shower faucet. The hot water side of the faucet was dripping. I did some research and found the make and model of my valve and located a rebuilding kit for the valve. After replacing the stems and seats , the hot water side of the valve is still leaking. What can I try next? Mike (New York)
A: Mike, I can tell that you are a pretty experienced handyperson, but it looks like you might have to get a little help with this one.
What you have is one of the old-style compression tub and shower valves. These valves have three handles: the middle handle is the diverter for the tub and shower, and the hot and cold valves are on either side of the diverter.
The main problem with most of the three-handle type shower valves is that there's no scald protection. They directly mix water just like most sink faucets. Modern tub and shower valves use a one handle setup with built-in anti-scald protection.
I appreciate the work you must have put into this project by locating the older parts and the fact that you were able to install all the parts. However, due to its age, continued leaking, and the issue of updating to one-handle anti-scald technology to meet most local codes, I recommend that you install a new valve.
This job can involve opening up the back wall or access panel; cutting off the old valve from the water lines, tub spout and shower pipe; removing tiles and backing from the shower wall to fit the new valve; and reinstalling the water lines, tub spout and shower piping. Then, trimming off both inside and backside walls to finish the job. Whew!
In the long run you will be safer in the shower and you'll add resale value to your bathroom. As I mentioned, you may want to call in a licensed plumber to help you out with this one. Most good plumbers can give you a price up front for this job and be in and out fairly quickly with no major disturbance to your bathroom. Just make sure you get everything promised in writing so you won't end up getting "soaked" on this tub and shower job!
