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October 20, 2008
The Midnight Moan
Q: Ed, my wife and I are going crazy trying to figure out what is causing a loud moan from our plumbing system every night. It's so loud that it wakes us up from a sound sleep. It only happens after midnight and we can actually feel things shaking in the walls. What can this be? Please help before I start opening up the walls.
-Alfred (New Mexico)
A: Before you open up any walls, you need to check out few things. In my book Ed Del Grande's House Call I stress that most noises in a plumbing system can be traced in part to high water pressure. You need to make sure your water pressure is under 80 psi to meet most local codes.
My gut feeling on this one is that you have a very slow leak in your toilet flapper. This is why the noise happens late at night, when the toilet sits unused. Water may be leaking by the flapper until the tank water level drops to a point when the ballcock float finally has to open a bit to let in more water.
That tiny opening of the fill valve along with high water pressure behind it can cause an unbelievable roar from the plumbing system. I have heard it myself many times. So, check your flapper first before you cause an even bigger flap in your home by opening up the walls for no reason!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 2:15 PM | TrackBack
October 19, 2008
Waterless Urinals in the Home
Q: Thanks, Ed, for all the advice you give us women (along with the men). It's very important to me, since I'm the only woman in the house with my husband and four young boys. As you can imagine, our toilet is flushed all day long, and we're tired of wasting all that water. I just read one of your recent articles about waterless urinals, and my question is can they be installed in any home? Also, what will I need to do to maintain them?
-Ruth (Indiana)
A: Ruth, with the amount of "number one" bathroom traffic in your home, you can expect to save thousands of gallons of water a year! Not to mention the fact that if you're on a septic system, you can expect lower maintenance bills.
Waterless urinals are becoming very popular for residential installations because they are usually pretty easy to install in most bathrooms. Since they are a "waterless" fixture, there is no reason to run any water lines to the urinal; all you should need is a properly sized drain line.
However, do not lose sight of the fact that a waterless urinal is a plumbing fixture, and local codes have to be followed -- along with taking out permits if required. I recommend that you call a licensed and insured plumber for installation.
Anyway, once the waterless urinal is installed, you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper operation and maintenance of the fixture. The ones that I'm familiar with use a "liquid trap seal" to keep out odors and dispose of the urine. This trap seal is made from an environmentally friendly, odor-absorbing fluid that floats inside the urinal trap. The urine simply passes through this fluid and goes down the drain.
As far as maintenance, once a day the urinal needs to be sprayed with a special cleaning agent. Also, twice a month, a small bucket of water needs to be poured into the urinal to wash out the trap, followed by a cup of the drain fluid to refill and seal the trap. Once you get the routine down, it should be no different from cleaning your toilet.
Speaking of which, since the boys will be using the urinal most of the time, your toilet should no longer be the victim of a "bad aim," and you'll probably be cleaning your toilet less!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:38 PM | TrackBack
October 18, 2008
Rough Job
Q: Ed, my wife and I are planning to build a new house. Could I hire a plumber to lay out and install the water and waste lines and then do all the finish work of installing the fixtures myself?
-Doug (Texas)
A: Well, first it depends on whether your town or city allows the homeowner to pull all the necessary plumbing permits. This way, it is your job and a licensed plumber may be more likely to work with you if the permits are in your name.
However, there may be an issue. You need to find a licensed and insured plumber that is willing to work with you. The majority of licensed plumbers build their reputation with the quality of their work. And, since most of the rough work on a plumbing system isn't visible, it's the finish work that shows off a plumbers skills. Many plumbers may not want to lose total control of the finish work, so you may have to work out a more flexible deal with your plumber.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:32 PM | TrackBack
October 17, 2008
Generator-Ready for Freddie
Q: Hello Ed, this is not really a plumbing question, but I know you have written some articles on home generators. I'm looking to buy a home that is being sold as "generator-ready." What exactly does that mean, and how much work still needs to be done to actually have the home generator installed? Nobody can give me a straight answer.
-Fred (Wisconsin)
A: This is a very good question since more and more homes are starting to be sold with the "generator-ready" option, but there are some gray areas that a potential buyer needs to follow up on.
First off, a generator-ready home is usually a home that has had some extra features installed in the main electrical panel box. These features should allow an easier hook up of the stand-by generator when the homeowner is ready to make that investment. The gray area is how much generator prep work has the builder already done, and you need to follow up on that. Basically it will break down into three levels: basic, mid-level, and true "ready."
Basic could simply be an electrical panel that has knockouts for the generator's electrical transfer. In this case, it will be an easier generator system hook up, but most of the equipment investment and work still needs to be done.
Mid-level can be the actual generator transfer switch is already installed at the panel. This is a sizable chunk of change invested into the electrical panel. However, outside you will still need to prep the area where the generator will be installed.
Along with an installed transfer switch inside, a true generator-ready setup may have the natural or propane gas lines, concrete pad and wiring access holes installed outside. In this case most of the rough work is completed and basically all you need to do is buy the generator itself and have the final hook ups installed.
So, now that you have the "power" of information, find out what level of "generator-ready" this home really is, and it may help you negotiate a better deal.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 10:07 AM | TrackBack
October 13, 2008
Major Decisions Based on "Hope"
Q: Ed, I'm looking to buy a house and located one that I love! But the inspector found it has a well with very stinky sulfur water; and testing showed other issues of concern. I still have hope for this home. Any advice for me?
-Don (Georgia)
A: Hope? You want to make the most important investment of your life based on Hope???
Come on, Don! In my book, (and I do have a book: Ed Del Grande's House Call) clean, safe, potable water is one of the most important things that a house must have. You need to listen to the recommendations of your real estate agent and home inspector to see if it's possible to have these problems corrected before you sign. That's why we have licensed agents and inspectors, so we don't get ourselves into a bad deal.
You can also contact a real estate lawyer for advice. With a lawyer's help, you, your agents and the present owner may be able to reach an agreement and make the sale pending as long as the water problems can be corrected by the present owner before the actual sale. This way, if the house does not pass the water test after the corrections, you may have the option of backing out.
Bottom line: Don't blindly jump into the "deep end" when buying a house that has water issues!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 5:26 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
October 11, 2008
Chip Shot in the Shower
Q: Ed, you're not going to believe this, but our beautiful new fiberglass tub/shower unit has a golf-ball-sized chip in the surface from when my husband somehow managed to knock the towel bar into the tub. (Don't ask!) Nothing leaks, so it's pretty much cosmetic. My question is: How do we get it to look pretty again?
-Cindy (Iowa)
A: OK, I won't ask how, but doesn't that mean your towel bar is also broken? First, make sure that the new towel bar is properly anchored to the wall with approved wall shields, or better yet, see if you can anchor it directly into a stud. If you don't hang the towel bar properly, this may happen again.
Now back to the chip in the tub. The good news is that most fiberglass tubs are made pretty much from the same materials you may find in a a fiberglass boat. The principles of the two vessels are a little different -- a boat keeps water out, and a tub keeps water in.
I say this is good news because it usually means that most chipped fiberglass tubs can be repaired with a simple boat repair kit that you can find at any good marine supply store. I've made many fiberglass boat and tub repairs with these types of kits, and they are easy to work with. Just follow the instructions that come with your type of kit.
Basically, the kit will include a two-step epoxy putty that you mix up; then pigment colors can be added to match the tub or hull. Once applied to the chipped area, smooth it out and let it cure. When cured, wet-sand it to match the existing surface.
A couple of quick notes: First, don't expect an "exact" color match even if the tub is white. Second, this is for surface damage only. If you have a hole or structural damage, an expert needs to be called in to make the proper repairs.
Finally, I would recommend that you take care of this repair yourself. I'm sure your husband is a wonderful person, but it sounds like he's a little clumsy around the tub!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 5:13 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
Tub of Trouble
Q: Hi, Ed. My parents live on a slab foundation, and every time they drain the tub, water starts to run out between the walls and the floor. To control the flooding, they only let small amounts of water out at a time -- and it can take hours to drain the tub! They are on a fixed income and cannot afford a huge repair bill; and I only have limited funds to help out. What can we do?
-Susan (Florida)
A: This is a very sad and common problem that I hear from all over the country: many homeowners that have limited (or no) repair budgets who are dealing with a major home repair issue. The only choice it seems they have is to live with the problem as best as they can.
Usually this creates a downward spiral, because one problem can lead to even bigger problems. In your parents' case, the leaking water from the floor and walls may lead to wood rot, mold, and insect problems. If your parents continue to do nothing, eventually they may have to sell the house at a loss -- so one way or another, this issue has to be addressed.
A licensed and insured plumber needs to be called in to set a price for this job. Let them know up front that your parents are on a "limited" budget, and see if they can work a payment plan. Many reliable companies are willing to work with homeowners, especially in these tough times.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 5:03 PM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
October 9, 2008
Iron-Clad Kitchen Advice
Q: Dear Ed, I trust your opinion and hope you can answer my question about a kitchen sink. I live in a 50-year-old house and have decided to remodel the kitchen. Since my house is so old, I was looking forward to installing all modern plumbing fixtures. But my designer insists on installing a "cast-iron" kitchen sink. I was under the impression that cast iron is an old style product since my present kitchen sink is also cast iron. Is it wise to listen to my designer on this matter? I don't want to offend her.
-Beth (Ohio)
A: Beth, there's an old saying that "What's old is new." (Come to think of it, that may be a new saying!) In any case, that saying applies well to cast-iron sinks.
Even though cast-iron plumbing fixtures have been around for close to a hundred years, they are making a huge comeback due to several reasons.
First reason: believe it or not, most cast-iron sinks are made from 93% recycled materials. That is an incredible percentage of reclaimed materials used in a product, and the "eco-friendly" movement has caught on to the benefits of cast-iron materials.
Also, new finishing processes have improved the look and durability of enamel coatings on today's cast-iron fixtures. The finish is bright and vibrant with a rainbow of colors to choose from. And, just like cast iron itself, the new finish coat on a high end cast-iron sink is very strong. Dings from heavy pots are a thing of the past if you look for a cast-iron sink that carries a limited lifetime warranty, with a guarantee not to chip, scratch or burn.
Finally, the cast-iron kitchen sink styles have changed from the basic two-bowl design to just about any configuration you can imagine. One style I like is called a "smart divide." A smart divide kitchen sink has a lower divider between sink basins allowing for most pots and pans to sit flat at the bottom of the sink to be fully submerged.
Speaking of smart, it sounds like your designer knows her stuff, and if she feels cast-iron fixtures will go best with the style of your kitchen, I also cast my vote for cast iron!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:48 PM | TrackBack
October 8, 2008
Mystery Kitchen Odor
Q: Ed, I read your articles every week, and I hope you can help me with a mystery kitchen odor. I went away for several weeks; upon returning, I discovered that my kitchen has a terrible odor near the kitchen sink. I called a plumber who checked everything -- vent pipes and trap, disposer, and under the sink cabinet. He said that it's not the plumbing. He also said (to my relief that) it didn't smell like a dead animal. Any suggestions? Please help!
-Amy (Georgia)
A: Amy, you did not mention this, but if you have any gas appliances, call the gas company right away to check for a possible small gas leak.
If you do not have gas in the home, I hate to say this, but I think your plumber may be on the right track by bringing up the dead critter scenario. Even though he said it didn't smell like a dead animal, you never know what kind of smell can come from something nasty that may be stuck in a wall or under a floor.
Since you were away from your home for a while, this may have given snakes, rodents, or even a raccoon a chance to get into your home and get stuck somewhere. I've seen all of the above-mentioned creatures cause odor problems for homeowners.
Believe it or not there are companies that specialize in dead animal removal. I'd call them in to sniff out and eliminate the problem, because this is one job that even I wouldn't do myself!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:43 PM | TrackBack
October 7, 2008
Waterless Urinal: How Does It Work?
Q: Ed, I recently used a public restroom and I noticed that the urinal had no flush valve. I quickly figured out that this must be a waterless urinal. Now that I have used one, I have several questions: how do they work and how do you keep them from retaining odors? Also, can they be installed in a home?
-Joe (Montana)
A: Welcome to the world of water conservation! First off, I'm a big fan of waterless urinals. The average waterless urinal installed in a high traffic area (like an airport or mall) can actually save about forty-thousand gallons of water a year! This is a staggering figure, and like it or not, with water saving numbers like that we will see more and more waterless urinals installed in more and more bathrooms across the country.
The waterless urinals that I'm familiar with use a floating trap fluid system -- and here's how it works. First, the urinal itself has been redesigned to catch and divert all the urine to the drain. Inside the drain trap is a special "floating fluid" that deodorizes the urine and creates the trap seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the bathroom.
The urine is heavier than the trap fluid, and it simply passes through the fluid and down the drain. Once a day the urinal needs to be sprayed with a waterless urinal cleaner. Twice a month a bucket of water should be poured into the urinal to wash out the system, and then a cup of seal fluid is poured in to urinal to reseal the trap.
All in all, it's a very simple and effective water saving fixture. And yes, as long as it meets local codes, a waterless urinal can be used in a home as well as in a public restroom. For a final note, you might say that waterless urinals are the new "number one" water-saving fixtures for the future!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:39 PM | TrackBack
October 6, 2008
Inspection Dilemma
Q: Ed, please help. I just bought an apartment building, and the plumbing inspector comes by and he says: "You need to install vacuum breakers on all your outdoor faucets." What is a vacuum breaker, and what is the easiest/cheapest way to install them? Jim (California)
A: Jim, as I always say: follow your local plumbing codes. It appears that even when you buy an existing home in your area, the inspector is looking for current upgrades and you need to follow his advice.
Vacuum breakers are usually installed as anti-siphon devices to help prevent water or debris from being sucked into a potable water plumbing system. In most areas it is code to have your outdoor faucets (or as we pros call them, "sillcocks") installed with built-in vacuum breakers.
In some areas it is possible to have "screw-on" type vacuum breakers installed on existing sillcock spouts, and that is a very easy job. However, you need to check with the inspector to see if they are allowed in your area. If not, the old sillcocks may have to be removed from the plumbing system and new sillcocks with built-in vacuum breakers installed to take their place.
Not a huge job, but enough work to "water down" your wallet for a bit!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 4:00 PM | TrackBack
October 5, 2008
Cleaning Up the Washroom
Q: Dear Ed, I love your column -- it's so informative! I hope you can help me with my washer/dryer room. The room is about 8'x10' with an old ugly laundry utility sink that the washer drains into. I'd love to install a kitchen type sink with some cabinets and make a little pantry area along with the laundry room. My question is can this upgrade be done, and where do I drain the washer? I don't want to drain it into the new kitchen sink. Please help with some "master plumber" advice. Maureen (New York)
A: Maureen, think of it this way: if you continue to drain the washing machine into your new kitchen sink, it will really help with the dishes! (Of course I'm just kidding.)
The good news is that because you have an existing sink in place, it should be no big deal to install another sink in that area. The first thing you need is a good plumber to inspect the existing lines to determine if the water and drain lines are in good shape and can be converted to fit the new sink and base cabinet. Also, the plumber will determine if a washing machine station can be set up to handle the water and drains for your clothes washer. Again, this should be fairly easy for a licensed professional to set up.
A washer station is basically a new one-handle hot and cold water valve that connects to the washing machine with the short washing machine hoses. For washer drains, the washing station usually has a two-inch drain standpipe that is eighteen inches or longer, connected to a P-trap. The flexible washer drain sticks into this standpipe. Please note that this is just general guideline information for a washing machine station; all local water, drain, and venting codes need to be followed for your area.
Once you have the new kitchen sink set up along with a separate washing machine station, the washer will now have its own drain, and the kitchen type sink will be all yours! Many homes have the washer and dryer set up close to the kitchen. In your case, you're setting up a kitchen close to your washer and dryer. So, if it works one way, I see no reason why this project won't work for you!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 3:48 PM | TrackBack
October 4, 2008
Renovation Complication
Q: Ed, I had my bathroom renovated a year ago, and now every time we turn on the hot water we hear clicking noises while we wait for hot water. Do you have any ideas or information as to what may be causing this? Al (Alabama)
A: Well, Al, you have a very common problem that may happen whenever you extend hot water lines in a wall and/or floor. The clicking and ticking sounds are usually a sign of expanding copper water lines going through tight spaces.
When you turn on hot water and it starts to run through the copper water lines, the pipe expands because of the heat, and that can create the clicking noise as it stretches a bit. Plumbers usually install clips and shields along the lines to minimize this effect, but in many cases you can still get some noises.
Have your plumber check out your water heater to make sure it's operating at the manufacturer's safe temperature setting and let the plumber listen to the noise itself for anything out of the ordinary. If everything checks out, just realize that with any plumbing system (including mine) there may be some unavoidable clicking and ticking every now and then.
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 3:45 PM | TrackBack
October 3, 2008
Flush Neighbor's Bad Advice
Q: Hey, Big Ed! I have been wanting to get rid of my old water-wasting toilet to get one of the new water saving "air assist" power flushing toilets. My neighbor says that I can just install the power flushing equipment to my old toilet. My question is: can this be true? Or, will I have to buy a whole new toilet to replace my old one? Wayne (New Mexico)
A: Hi, Wayne. The power flush system you are talking about is commonly called a "pressure lite" flushing system because it uses air pressure to assist with the flushing power.
Pressure lite toilets have a closed chamber inside the toilet tank that fills with water from your plumbing system; this sealed chamber traps a pocket of compressed air along with the water used for flushing. The air is compressed by the water pressure in your plumbing system, and when you flush the toilet the compressed air really gives the water a strong push for a powerful flush! It sounds complicated, but it's really a simple and reliable flushing system. Also, this type of assisted flush toilet is a "High Efficiency Toilet" meaning that it may only use 1.3 gallons of water per flush, or less. In my book Ed Del Grande's House Call I get into all the new water-saving flushing systems -- along with some nice illustrations -- if you need more information.
Because this is fairly new technology, and the tank and bowl for the pressure lite systems have been redesigned to fit the equipment, I really don't see a way where you can fit this type of flushing equipment into an existing standard toilet. Bottom line is that you will need to remove your old toilet and install the new toilet according to your local codes and manufacturer's instructions.
The good news is that you should see average water savings of about four to six thousand gallons of water per year with your new high-efficiency toilet. Also, because of the extra air power, you'll have a very strong flush... and that may come in handy for the next bad bundle of information you get from your neighbor!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 3:26 PM | TrackBack
October 2, 2008
Dump the Sump
Q: Hello Ed, please help! I have a finished basement and rely on my sump pump to protect my home from flooding. I thought I was safe, but during the last storm my basement started getting wet. My pump had stopped, so I jiggled the float and it started up. It's worked fine since then but now every time it rains I get concerned. Was this a fluke or should I change the pump? I really am on a tight budget. Benny (Rhode Island)
A: Benny, there are things we can afford to do in our homes and things we cannot afford to do in our homes. In your case you can't afford not to change the pump.
I'm sure you have a sizable investment in your finished basement, and you need to know that you are protecting that investment the best you can. I would not play the odds with this one.
A sticky float switch can be a warning sign that a complete switch failure may soon be possible. And, if the switch does fail in the middle of a rainy night, you could find yourself knee deep in trouble!
Posted by Ed Del Grande at 12:13 PM | Comments (2) | TrackBack
