tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande/77 2008-05-02T16:50:08Z HGTVPro.com contributor and three-time Master Contractor Ed Del Grande answers your questions on industry trends, plumbing issues, and the homebuilding industry. Movable Type 3.33 tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2803 2008-05-02T16:47:37Z 2008-05-02T16:50:08Z

Q: Ed, can you resolve another husband/wife dispute? During the heating season we run an electric humidifier to put moisture into our home since we heat with a wood stove and the air can get very dry. When taking showers...

Ed Del Grande Q: Ed, can you resolve another husband/wife dispute? During the heating season we run an electric humidifier to put moisture into our home since we heat with a wood stove and the air can get very dry. When taking showers I leave the bathroom door open with the fan off to let the moist air dispense into the house. I feel this helps keep our house extra moist during the heating season. My husband insists that we keep the bathroom door closed tight with the bathroom vent fan on to prevent mold from building up in the bathroom. What do you think? Jayne (New Hampshire)]]> A: Issue one: I think that a husband should never complain about his wife taking showers with an open door. Issue two: Both of you bring up some very valid points. You are correct that moist air is moist air and the extra shower steam may feel good in a dry house. Your husband is correct that good air flow from a vent fan may prevent mold from building up. I have the perfect solution for your home and your marriage: Continue to take your showers with the bathroom door open, but run the vent fan while taking your shower. This will give you a nice mix of fresh air flow and extra moisture throughout your home. Now that this dispute is over, I'm sure you'll be showering each other with love very soon!]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2802 2008-05-02T16:43:23Z 2008-05-02T16:45:59Z

Q: Mr. Del Grande, While I enjoy reading your column in our local newspaper, the advice you gave this week about setting a toilet without sealing the fixture to the floor sent me to my code books. According to my...

Ed Del Grande Q: Mr. Del Grande, While I enjoy reading your column in our local newspaper, the advice you gave this week about setting a toilet without sealing the fixture to the floor sent me to my code books. According to my code books they all state that: "Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed." My jurisdiction has taken this to mean the joint between the toilet base and the floor must be caulked or sealed with grout on tile floors. I would hate to have the homeowner follow your advice and get a red tag upon job inspection. Wally (Florida)]]> A: Hi Wally, first let me explain to our readers what the dreaded "red tag" means. It usually means someone did not follow their local codes and the "tagged" issue needs to be corrected. In all fairness though, I was not advising to set a toilet without sealing it to the floor, the issue was shimming a toilet. So, please don't send the toilet cops after me! It looks like you did your homework and if your local codes require that the toilet base be "sealed," then there is no disagreement, we seal the toilet base to avoid the red tag. However, there is a difference between "sealing" a toilet base and "caulking" a toilet base with adhesive caulk. My advice was that: "Most of the plumbers I know do not caulk around the entire toilet base." The reason for this is that a toilet glued to the floor can be difficult to remove without damaging the floor or breaking the toilet. Now, if you seal the toilet base with a non-adhesive material like tile grout, you can follow your local codes and avoid a problem down the road. Keep in mind also that a completely sealed toilet base may hide a leaking toilet flange and this may damage the floor under the toilet over time. For that reason, once again myself and most of the plumbers I know will leave a gap in the seal on the back side of the toilet base. This way, the front of the bowl is sealed from urine or moisture that may get in under the toilet, but if there is a flange leak you can usually spot the water leaking out the back. Bottom line on toilet bottoms is to do what the local inspector says and that should seal the deal with this issue!]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2801 2008-04-24T16:38:42Z 2008-05-02T16:42:12Z

Q: Hello Ed. I recently saw you at a building show and you were talking about water conservation and replacing older toilets to save a lot of water. You made a great speech and I have decided to change my...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hello Ed. I recently saw you at a building show and you were talking about water conservation and replacing older toilets to save a lot of water. You made a great speech and I have decided to change my old toilet. My question is that since I'm removing my old toilet, does it make sense to move my toilet drain a few feet as well? I always wanted my toilet moved over a bit from the side wall. Thanks! Rodger (Georgia)]]> A: Rodger, I'm thrilled you liked my speech and that you are going to get rid of your old water guzzling toilet for a new HET (High Efficiency Toilet) that can save thousands of gallons of water a year! Anyone else looking for a new toilet, I recommend getting an HET that carries the EPA "Water Sense" label. The Water Sense label means that the toilet tests at the high end of the flushing power chart and flushes with 1.3 gallons of water per flush or less. That's what you call power and performance! Anyway, I digress. Rodger, while changing a toilet is usually not a big deal, moving a toilet drain line usually is a big deal. My advice is to leave the toilet drain where it is and simply swap your old toilet for the new HET with the "Water Sense" label. Now, that makes a lot of sense! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2800 2008-04-23T16:35:14Z 2008-05-02T16:38:03Z

Q: Dear Ed, my old tub and shower valve needs to be replaced, and to make matters worse the pipe inside the wall that goes up to my shower head is broken and also has to be replaced. Of course...

Ed Del Grande Q: Dear Ed, my old tub and shower valve needs to be replaced, and to make matters worse the pipe inside the wall that goes up to my shower head is broken and also has to be replaced. Of course my only access panel behind the tub wall is just for the lower part of the wall where the tub valve is. This means to replace the shower pipe, my entire back wall has to be opened up. My plumber says he can install a mixing valve with a low hand held personal shower fitting and hose and we can just hang the shower head up high. This would save breaking the wall, but is this a good idea? Sharon (Texas) ]]> A: Well, it is a creative solution, but before you do anything, check your local codes to see if it is allowed. Of course, the best way to do things would be to open up the back wall and install the new mixing valve complete with a new shower pipe and shower arm through the wall and into the tub/shower stall. Then, patch and rebuild the back wall with perhaps a larger access panel. While more expensive and invasive, if you ever sell the house, this can give you a better resale value. However, I understand that we are all on tight budgets and sometime a quicker, less expensive way out of a problem is appealing. If you go for the personal shower with the extension hose option, I would spend the extra money for a chrome trim hose, shower head and hanging bracket. This will give you a more finished look than plastic and may actually add more beauty to your tub and shower. Not bad for taking the easy way out! If you really want to add a nice feature, some personal showers have vertical hanging bar assemblies that would allow you to slide the shower head up and down on the chrome bar for your own custom shower height. Either way, if you go with opening up the wall or the personal shower solution, make sure your new tub/shower mixing valve has hot water scald protection and meets local building codes. Finally, I don't want to get personal here but I assume you'll be looking at the inside of your shower stall at least once a day. So, do whatever makes you feel the best, not what costs the less! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2799 2008-04-22T16:32:28Z 2008-05-02T16:34:07Z

Q: Ed, I have a water line with a compression fitting under my sink. When I tried to take the compression fitting off, the crimp ring was stuck on the copper pipe and will not slide off. How does one...

Ed Del Grande Q: Ed, I have a water line with a compression fitting under my sink. When I tried to take the compression fitting off, the crimp ring was stuck on the copper pipe and will not slide off. How does one remove the compressed brass ring off a copper pipe? Thanks. -Chris (Texas)]]> A: Chris, the short answer is: You don't! Compression fittings work with three components. The compression nut, ferrule, and fitting body. When you tighten the nut on to the body, the ferrule between the two components crimps around the pipe and that seals the fitting. Usually the fitting nut and ferrule have to be cut off the pipe and the new pipe end can be used for the new connection. However, sometimes there may not be enough room on the pipe to cut out the fitting and that's where things will get tough. I have had to open up walls and floors to get access to a good pipe end and then had to run some new lines. Hopefully, you will have room to work with this one. Remember, I never said plumbing was easy! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2793 2008-04-21T16:24:41Z 2008-05-01T16:31:01Z

Q: Hey Ed, I enjoy your TV show "Ed The Plumber" and read your newspaper column every week. Can you help out a loyal fan with a toilet problem? I installed a new toilet on my tile floor and it...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hey Ed, I enjoy your TV show "Ed The Plumber" and read your newspaper column every week. Can you help out a loyal fan with a toilet problem? I installed a new toilet on my tile floor and it rocked back and forth on the floor a bit. So, I took a piece of plywood and traced the bottom of the toilet to make a solid wood base and installed the toilet over the plywood. It does not rock anymore, but now I'm getting second thoughts. Is what I did OK? It would be nice to know if my idea will work for the long haul. Sincerely, Rex (Michigan)]]> A: Hi Rex, I can never say no to a loyal fan so let me try to help even though my response may not be what you want to hear. First off even though a toilet replacement looks easy on paper, in real life it's normal to run into problems. For instance, broken flanges, rotted floors and uneven floors are very common road blocks that plumbers face on a regular basis. The good news is that an uneven floor is the easiest of the three that I mentioned to work around. With any toilet the area under the toilet does tend to get moist and hold water so it's important that the materials used under a toilet are waterproof. Ceramic tile is an excellent material for a toilet to sit on, bare plywood is not. The plywood can hold moisture and may start to rot, harbor bugs and promote mold over the long haul. I recommend that you remove the plywood base and put the toilet back on to your tile floor. OK, now lets address the rocking issue. See where the toilet is rocking and find any low spots on the floor around the toilet before you tighten the closet bolts. Most home centers sell special plastic shims approved for toilet use that can be set into place with a dab of caulking. These shims should give you a good base and cut back the rocking. Once in place, gently tighten down the closet bolts to lock the toilet into place. Most plumbers agree that caulking should not be used around the entire toilet base, only at the shim points. This will promote air flow under the toilet and if the flange seal ever leaks the water will be noticed around the base of the bowl. A completely caulked toilet base may hold the water under the toilet and if you ever have to replace the toilet, the caulking may pull up the tiles or base floor. Sorry Rex, but you asked for it and now it looks like you have to do the job over. I hope you're still a loyal fan!]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2724 2008-04-14T14:23:05Z 2008-04-22T21:34:56Z

Q: Hi Ed, I love your new "House Call" book and weekly column, and I've been waiting for a Teflon tape question to come up. I have not seen one yet, so I'll ask it myself. What is the difference...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hi Ed, I love your new "House Call" book and weekly column, and I've been waiting for a Teflon tape question to come up. I have not seen one yet, so I'll ask it myself. What is the difference between Teflon tape and plumber's pipe dope? Is one better than the other? Fred (California)]]> A: Thanks, Fred. As you seem to know, the best way to get my attention is with a nice compliment! I am not a scientist, so I cannot say if one is better than another, but I can tell you my experience with both Teflon tape and pipe dope. For those who don't know, to properly connect threaded fittings, some type of sealer needs to be used. Teflon tape is applied to the male threads by rolling the tape around the fitting end with the direction of the threads. Teflon paste or pipe dope is applied to the threads with a small brush. Most plumbers I know like the paste because it's faster to work with; some local codes may require paste-type sealers for certain connections. However, the tape is a lot cleaner to work with and also some equipment installations may require using the tape over the paste. What I do is I research the type of equipment and/or connections I'm going to make, and I check the codes as well. If the installation calls for one type of sealer over another, then my choice is easy, I go with the approved sealer for that job. If I can use any type of pipe sealer for the connections, my choice is still easy. I go for the closest one I can get my hands on! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2723 2008-04-14T14:18:02Z 2008-04-14T14:22:53Z

Q: Dear Ed, I'm redoing my basement and have to move my bar sink to the complete opposite side of the room from where it is now. In order for it to drain I have to run the piping up...

Ed Del Grande Q: Dear Ed, I'm redoing my basement and have to move my bar sink to the complete opposite side of the room from where it is now. In order for it to drain I have to run the piping up from the sink, over the suspended ceiling and then back down to the present drain. What do you recommend for equipment to pump this drain water up and over? Dan (Michigan) ]]> A: Oh Danny-boy, the pipes are calling. You must really like having parties at your basement bar to go through all this work! The good news is that since you are just draining a bar sink you are dealing with "gray" water, not sewer water from a toilet. A graywater discharge system is a lot easier to install than a sewer ejector pump, and the equipment is a lot less money. Cheers to that! The system most commonly installed for sinks and laundry stations is called a laundry pump — basically a small (five gallons or so), self-contained, sealed chamber with a built-in pump. The housing also has connections for the incoming water, discharge line and vent line and the unit usually plugs into an approved electrical outlet. Water drains into the laundry pump tank, and when the tank is full, a float switch turns on the pump and discharges the water to the final gravity drain connection on the line. This allows you drain water "up and over" as you stated. Please note that laundry pumps usually require local permits and must be installed to local building codes. For instance, check valves, GFCI electrical outlets, outside venting of the tank and drain distance restrictions are some of the issues that may need to be addressed. Bottom line is to check all your local codes before you start this job. A licensed plumber may be a good idea to bring in on this one, and maybe you can get a break on the price if you promise to invite them to your next party. Open bar, of course! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2680 2008-04-07T05:56:17Z 2008-04-07T06:05:35Z

Q: Ed, help!!! My toilet backed up and I tried to snake it out with a rooter. Guess what? The rooter is now stuck in my toilet bowl trap! What is my next move? Maximus (Florida)...

Ed Del Grande Q: Ed, help!!! My toilet backed up and I tried to snake it out with a rooter. Guess what? The rooter is now stuck in my toilet bowl trap! What is my next move? Maximus (Florida) ]]> A: Dear Maximus, I hope that is not your only toilet in the house because it looks like you are in a big jam with this one. You may want to call in a plumber on this, because you have two labor-intensive choices: 1) Suck up any water or debris in the tank and bowl with a wet-vac vacuum approved for water use. Then disconnect the tank from the bowl and the bowl from the floor flange. Then you can turn the bowl on its side and try to push the snake or auger from behind while you pull from the front. If you get the snake out, you can then reinstall the toilet and see if it works. Word of caution, the bowl can be damaged and you may have to replace the toilet anyway after all that work. 2) Remove and throw out the old toilet and install a new toilet. The second choice may actually cost you less money if the first choice doesn't work and the job has to be done twice! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2679 2008-04-07T05:50:31Z 2008-04-07T06:05:35Z

Q: Hello, Ed. My wife and I have a potential problem with our new kitchen plans. We live in a small house on a small lot. For years we have wanted to build our big beautiful dream kitchen; it would...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hello, Ed. My wife and I have a potential problem with our new kitchen plans. We live in a small house on a small lot. For years we have wanted to build our big beautiful dream kitchen; it would be a room all to itself. Of course a big addition like this would require a slab foundation that would extend off the house. The trouble is that our sewer line runs directly under where we need to build the new kitchen. The line cannot be relocated, so it's build over and cover the sewer beneath the kitchen or cancel our dream plans. I'm just worried what would happen if the sewer line ever breaks down and needs to be replaced. Can you help us with some advice? Bill and Tammy (Washington) ]]> A: Hi, Bill and Tammy. I get a lot of questions like yours, so you are not alone. Building a new kitchen is stressful enough, and I'm sorry you have the extra stress of facing a potential disaster down the road. The first thing you need to do is meet with your local building inspector to see if it's even allowed in your area to build over utility lines. If the inspector says you cannot do it, well, then your decision is an easy one: No new kitchen. However, if it is allowed in your area to build over a utility like a sewer line, you face a tough call. If you decide to go for it, according to all the local codes I know of, you will need to bring in a licensed representative for the utility companies to mark and lay out where every water, gas, sewer, electrical line, etc., is located. (Your inspector can tell you where to call for this service.) That way when you dig, you can be aware of potential hazards and avoid breaking the sewer line before you even build. Now here is where it gets tough. If it is allowed and you decide to build over the sewer line, you may never have a problem in your lifetime and there will not be an issue. But, in a year, 10 years — who knows? — the line may fail, and your only option may be digging up the old sewer line and replacing it. This could be a financial disaster for you and you could end up losing your home, never mind the kitchen! I have seen homeowners install driveways or patios over utility lines, but keep in mind they can be cut and patched to get access to the line. I cannot tell you what to do; all I can tell you is to thoroughly research this project with your local officials, your insurance company and your contractors before you start. Otherwise, your dream kitchen could turn into a nightmare! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2655 2008-03-31T05:28:24Z 2008-03-31T05:34:29Z

Q: Ed, I really used to enjoy watching your Ed The Plumber show on the DIY Network. Where has it been lately? I can't seem to find it in my local listings. Now for my question: When I turn on...

Ed Del Grande Q: Ed, I really used to enjoy watching your Ed The Plumber show on the DIY Network. Where has it been lately? I can't seem to find it in my local listings. Now for my question: When I turn on my hot water, it runs brown for a while then clears up. What should I have checked? Mike (Florida) ]]> A: Thanks, Mike. Yes, the Ed The Plumber show is a classic and was one of the first national all-plumbing shows. I have heard a rumor that the show is coming back for another run. According to the DIY website, it is scheduled to air very early in the mornings starting this April. Check your local cable or satellite program guide for Ed The Plumber and Tivo or DVR the show. You won't be disappointed! Now for your rusty-water problem. Older galvanized steel water lines can cause rusty water, but more pressing may be a water heater problem. You want to have that checked as soon as possible before the tank springs a leak. Rusty water is not normal for properly installed plumbing systems, and just like a warning flag, take this as a serious signal for a potential problem that has to be addressed immediately! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2654 2008-03-31T05:22:56Z 2008-03-31T05:34:29Z

Q: Hello, Mr. Del Grande. I enjoy getting my building tips from your column, and I now have a problem that I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm installing a custom tile shower stall and had planned on using...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hello, Mr. Del Grande. I enjoy getting my building tips from your column, and I now have a problem that I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm installing a custom tile shower stall and had planned on using a rubber membrane with thinset mortar for the shower base, then I was to tile over the cement floor. But now that I'm working on the base, it seems to be getting very complicated as to how the drain will attach to the membrane, how to angle the mortar and how to properly tile around the drain. I'm stopping the job until I can get some more info. Can you please help me? Jack (Michigan) ]]> A: Jack, you are a smart person. I stress in my book over and over that when you are not sure of a project, stop before you get into trouble and get some good information. Hopefully, I can give you some good and useful information right now. The type of shower pan you are trying to install is commonly called a "mud" base shower stall. It usually consists of a liner that is made with prefabricated copper or a rubber membrane. The shower drain will usually attach with a special type of compression flange that will meet your local codes. The drain strainer is also adjustable to match the mortar level of your shower base; the thickness of the mortar is usually in the 3- to 4-inch range. The advantage of a mud base shower is that you can have a tile floor since the water is contained by the copper or rubber membrane liner, not the tile and grout itself. The disadvantage to a mud base is that this is a job best left to the pros because it is very involved and requires a lot of skill to do the job right. Another alternative for you to try is a fiberglass shower stall base that can be installed in place of a mud shower pan. A prefabricated resin base can be purchased at your local supply house or home center and basically it's ready to go out of the box! Most will use a standard PVC shower flange drain that is pretty easy to install. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions. With a pre-made fiberglass or resin based bottom for your shower, you will still be able to have a tiled shower surround for the walls and ceiling. Sometimes all it takes is a simple idea to make a complicated shower problem wash itself away! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2612 2008-03-24T05:33:46Z 2008-03-24T05:35:46Z

Well, it happened again. My last article on the Great Toilet Cleaning Debate generated hundreds of letters, and I want to share some of them with you. I already had my last words by saying: "It's not my place to...

Ed Del Grande Well, it happened again. My last article on the Great Toilet Cleaning Debate generated hundreds of letters, and I want to share some of them with you. I already had my last words by saying: "It's not my place to promote any toilet cleaning products, and it's up to each individual to do their own research to find a toilet cleaner that works best for them." "Ed, had to laugh when I read your article. Sounds like you're dealing with most of the students in my ninth grade class. They want us to do all the research and give them all the answers!" "A very good morning indeed, after reading your column! Ed, you seem to be very patient with people and of gentle demeanor. Don't they know regular cleanings with mild detergent usually does the trick? I guess some people would like for you to peel the apple for them as well!" "Thank you, Ed! After reading your article about toilet cleaning, I applaud you for stating the obvious. People are getting more and more dependent on others to do the work for them, and cry foul when someone points that out to them. In this day and age when too many people are lazy and outspoken, individuals like yourself are revered!" "Ed, could you please tell me how to brush my teeth and tie my shoes also? You have gone above and beyond on this one! I appreciate the entertainment value of this topic, but saddened that the laziness in our society has reached such levels." "I read your column on toilet cleaning and it was a complete waste of my time! You said nothing but 'do your own research.' I side with those who think it's your job to tell us what brand works best. Most people don't have time to do that sort of research. Give us a break and give us some information!" Okay, you win. Here is some information; it took me all of about five minutes to search the Internet for "toilet bowl cleaners." More than 2,000 hits popped up on my screen. I think that is plenty of information on toilet bowl cleaners for anyone! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2529 2008-03-17T06:57:01Z 2008-03-17T07:11:11Z

Q: Hi, Ed, We have a very embarrassing problem in our basement, and I hope you can help us understand what's going on. About a year ago we decided to remodel our basement complete with a toilet, bathroom sink and...

Ed Del Grande Q: Hi, Ed, We have a very embarrassing problem in our basement, and I hope you can help us understand what's going on. About a year ago we decided to remodel our basement complete with a toilet, bathroom sink and a bar sink. Since we were lower than the house drains, a sewer ejector pump was needed for the job. Against my wishes, my husband had the bright idea to work with a relative who is not a plumber but claimed to "know as much" as a plumber. Apparently he did not, and now every time the ejector pump runs we get a stinky sewer smell in the bar sink area. How can we fix this? I'm ready to lock my husband in the basement with the stinky plumbing until it's fixed! Betty (Ohio) ]]> A: Betty, before you sentence your husband to a smelly cell for not using a real plumber, let me just tell you that you're not alone! I get many letters just like yours when it comes to sewer ejector pumps and installations that do not meet local codes. A sewer ejector pit is a closed drum or storage tank that sits below grade. Inside the tank is a heavy duty grinding pump that discharges the sewer water from the plumbing fixtures up to the house sewer lines. The tank itself is sealed tight to contain odors, and the tank usually requires a separate vent pipe called a local vent. A local vent should vent uninterrupted up through the roof of a home to the outside air. Local codes vary, and a sewer ejector needs to be vented according to your local codes. Permits may be required in your area. Your odor problem could be caused by many things, but a likely scenario could be a venting issue with the ejector and/or fixtures. If they're not vented properly, the pump can create a suction in your drain lines when the water is discharged from the tank. If the suction is strong enough to pull the water out from your bar sink trap — well, you now have an open drain line directly to the sewer ejector. Hence the smell! You need to have a licensed plumber check out the entire system, pull permits if needed, and then install the proper vent lines, check valves and controls needed to bring the job up to code. Remember, a piece of equipment will work only as well as the technician installed it. In your case,equipment "stinks." That should tell you something about your husband's choice of installers! ]]> tag:blogs.hgtvpro.com,2008:/hgtvpro/ed_del_grande//77.2530 2008-03-17T05:08:46Z 2008-03-17T05:17:14Z

Q: Ed, you are the plumbing expert for the country, and we know you'll have the right advice for us! We live on a slab foundation, and our kitchen sink drain line is broken or crushed under the cement floor....

Ed Del Grande Q: Ed, you are the plumbing expert for the country, and we know you'll have the right advice for us! We live on a slab foundation, and our kitchen sink drain line is broken or crushed under the cement floor. The sink will not drain at all no matter what we try. How do we get access to this pipe without destroying the kitchen? Any suggestions are welcome! David (Mississippi)]]> A: Dear David, thanks for your confidence in me. You know I always tell it like it is, so I think you know what I'm about to say. I understand how you feel right now and you may be looking for someone to tell you something that you want to hear. Well, I can't do that. Sorry. The only way I know to get the proper access to drain and water lines located under a concrete floor is to break open the floor and dig out around the pipes. Usually the access hole has to be larger than the problem area of the pipe so you can have room for repairs. In the kitchen this may include ripping out the base cabinets and you may also have to replace the entire finished floor so everything matches. You may want to contact your insurance company to see if any of the work may be covered under your homeowners policy; this may help offset some of the costs. Also, get some estimates before you start this job. Bottom line is that you need a working kitchen sink, and you'll need to have the money put aside for this job so you don't dig yourself into a hole! ]]>