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June 22, 2009
Oil, Oil Everywhere
Hello, Mark.
I'm once again turning to you for some DIY advice and guidance. Looking to re-stain my deck. What are the key elements (product choice, technique, process) to consider with this process? The last thing I want to do is screw this up and have to do it 3 times!
I've already used a wood-prep product to strip the deck of the old stain, so I am back down to the wood. The deck is made of pressure treated wood. Not sure of the wood type. Our preference is for a darker stain. Do you like oil based stains over latex?
Any commentary is appreciated – for two reasons. 1) It is useful information to help me do the job correctly. 2) For my reading pleasure.
Thank you,
CamO' from tip-top Topsfield
(Note: See deck designs and learn more about wood care on HGTVPro.com.)
Hey Mr. "Cam-Do"
1. Great to hear from you.
2. Here are my thoughts:
While I want most things to be environmentally friendly, there are some that I want to be environmentally UN-friendly, at least in a manner of speaking. Those items include oil-based deck stains because I want to the oil to repel the environment, not wear out, or more accurately, wear off. See, generally speaking, oil-based products soak into the wood becoming part of it below the surface while water-based products tend to encapsulate the wood. Over time, as the wood moves and the encapsulation doesn't, the bond breaks down.
Also, be warned. I've seen an oil-based stain in at least one big box store that "cleans up with water." Uh... what?
Oil and water don't mix, my home improvement friend. What I always use is a truly solvent-based product, aka OIL. What I've used on my own projects really works, even below grade. It's called DeckScapes by Sherwin Williams, which I buy at my local Sherwin Williams store. Benjamin Moore has an oil option too. If you can't find that, hit a pro paint store near where you live inquire about "solvent-based" stain, which you can get in various colors, including the deeper tones you mention above. Double-check the meat-headenedness of the counter guy by investigating what to clean-up the stuff with. (Right answer: mineral spirits. Wrong answer: water.) Also, get some mineral spirits to clean your stuff/yourself with.
One more thing: the darker the tint, according to the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association, the more UV inhibitors the material has. In other words, darker tints hold up better to sunlight (or photo-degradation) than light or clear tints.
Use a high-quality, natural-bristle brush (ask at the store for the right brush; expect to pay a few bucks for it) to really massage the material into the wood. Use two coats, minimum.
Work bottom-up on vertical surfaces to prevent streaks (total chafe on guardrails; you can investigate spraying them but it's probably best to bite the bullet and brush them, at least the first time.) I'd stain the deck framing/surface first, then do the guard rails. This way when there are runs and drips from doing the rails, the horizontal surfaces already have a sheen on them and you can either brush the drip in or wipe it off. See what I'm sayin'? Work clean!
Unlike a water-based product that basically dries by evaporation, oil's drying process is more a chemical reaction so there's no hurrying the dry time, which is around 24 hours (maybe more). Really, really soak end grains of the wood where you can see them.
Trivia: You said your deck is pressure-treated lumber. I get the sense you're on the East Coast, so the species is almost surely Southern Pine -- check out a fence project I built for them. If you're on the West Coast, they treat another species out there. Any ideas what it is, anybody?
Mark Clement is a remodeler and is the author of The Carpenter's Notebook, A Novel.
You can also visit Mark's website at FormalFarmHouse.com.
Posted by Mark Clement at June 22, 2009 4:55 PM
Comments
Hi Mark,
What do you suggest for refinishing epay which is a very hard tropical wood? I am thinking of using teak oil. The deck ia a couple of years old and has never been finished.
Your suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards, Paul J.
Posted by: Paul J. at June 30, 2009 10:16 PM
I was reading your perfetional advice on decks witch I thought was pretty much on , Ive ben restoring decks in michigan for 30 years witch as you know can have some good and bad weather oil is the way to go but the biggest mastake diy people make is thay dont let there decks dry long enuff you have to make sure it is dry everywhere inbetween boards and under all railings and spindales, also when aplying your treatment make sure you put a drop cloth or plastic under all rails as you go to prevent steaking or overlaping on splater or drip spots or you will have color veriations light and dark because of double coating espeasaly deckscape from sherwin williams it steaks and flashes real easy I prefere total wood paservitive by amecco you can get only at ICI paint stores it last longer than all the other product I have ever used and you can do a double applacation as you go wet on wet just make sure you do not work in sun or in real hot weather the product need to soak up in the wood not dry on surfess hope this helps some one or everybody a deck is a big job to tackle to do it right
Posted by: scott at July 1, 2009 12:36 AM
Flood deck stains share the characteristics of an oil stain thanks to their Penetrol formulation, but cleanup with soap and water. We like it a lot. It often covers well in a single coat, is durable, and cleans up easily. Our local Ben Moore pro shop carries it and match colors if for us to match architectural finishes for condo projects.
Posted by: kimotee at July 1, 2009 4:35 AM
Hi Mark - - We have recently stained our wooden front porch (oil base stain). Could you please advise us on what type of sealer we should use. We were thinking about using Thompson Sealer. Thanks, Dianne
Posted by: Dianne Ramsey at July 1, 2009 9:12 AM
WHAT DO I USE FOR CLEANING MILDEW OR ALGEA OFF MY DECK MADE OF THE DECKING THAT IS WOOD FIBERS ENCAPSULED IN PLASTIC ? THK-YOU
Posted by: DAVE at July 1, 2009 2:39 PM
I'm going to be painting my kitchen and would like to know what product to use to get rid of the grease from the walls and cupboards before I start painting. Maybe my question should be what are the steps I should follow to have this project done the right way.
Posted by: SHARON TAYLOR at July 1, 2009 2:50 PM
I have a question regarding West Coast pine logs: We have structual elements of our house which are carried by pine logs. They are in need of refinishing and caulking. The logs are checking (11 years old now) and need filling prior to finishing. Last time they were filled the caulking did not last even 1 year and neither did the finish. What products should we use?
Posted by: jan at July 1, 2009 5:24 PM
Great explanation Mark. But, I have a very large deck and also a 70 foot dock. Total of about 1350 sq feet. I used a brick red semitransparent water based product on it a few years ago and as you described, it is breaking down all over. We live in SC so the wood is southern pine. What is the process for cleaning the old product so I can re-stain with a solvent based product?
Posted by: Bob Williams at July 4, 2009 10:19 AM
I also have a deck, not sure of the wood but it is pressure treated. I live in illinois. I have been using Thompson's Advance Waterseal Honey Gold on my deck, my deck faces the west and it seems I have to repeat this process twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. This is quite tiring and expense but the deck seems to lose its luster after the summer is over and after winter is done. I have a pool off my deck. How would I remove the Thompson's watersealant and apply the oil stain?
Posted by: Chris at July 13, 2009 11:05 AM
I have put bathroom wall paper on my bathroom walls and I thought I put enough water on the prepaseted wall paper; I even put paste on the walls but it has been a little over a year and the wall paper is letting loose big time. I even put the bathroom off limits for a few days so the wall paper would stick. The wall paper was expensive so I thought if I got good quality paper it would stick reeally well.. I tried seam sealer but the loosesness of the paper is getting worse. Is there any help for me?? The old wallpaper was on the modular home when we got it--so I wanted to paper over it again. Can I save my wall paper--and what can I do?? no one seems to know what to do.
Posted by: monica eisenbraun at August 11, 2009 11:41 PM
